Assembling D-sub connectors with crimp contacts

[kolyur]

I have to make up some cables with 9-pin D-sub connectors on one end. I've done this in the past with solder cup connectors, but I don't want to go through that aggravation again. I'd like to get the crimp-style contacts, buy a decent crimping tool, and do it right. I quickly discovered that there are two options:
(1) The open-barrel/stamped type contact, where the little tabs of the contact are simultaneously folded over and crimped onto the wire. Plus there is a second set of tabs that grip the wire insulation.
(2) The closed-barrel/machined type contact, which requires a 4-way crimping tool.

My question is for those of you who have used either or both of these options. Which one is best? I have priced both types of contacts and tools, and it's pretty much a wash so I want to base my decision on which system produces the most reliable crimp. I'd appreciate any recommendations.

 

[MikeGranby]

The aviation grade crimps where the tool pinches the round barell on to the wire are far superior in my experience. There are, though, both low-end and high-end tools for those, with the higher ones running crazy money. I've used a cheap tool with them and still had good results, though.

 

[kolyur]

Thanks Mike... actually this connector will be plugged into the back of a G306K so I'll consider your suggestion the "official" Red Lion recommendation.

 

[MikeGranby]

The barell crimps are a lot more sensitive on having the correct wire gauge, though.

 

[Gil47]

I know my answer is not a reply to the question you wanted answered,
This is the answer I use when soldering 9 pin D shell plugs

I have an old horn loud speaker that has been stripped of all but the magnet and handle, I mount it in a vice, adjust the angle to what I want, and put the D shell plug on the magnet its like having another two hands available for the soldering job

I have to make up some cables with 9-pin D-sub connectors on one end. I've done this in the past with solder cup connectors, but I don't want to go through that aggravation again.

 

[Doug-P]

Of the two options you present, I'd go with the four-way barrel crimp. The tool is not cheap but the connection is reliable and the operation basically foolproof once you've got the correct connectors and the tool is adjusted. The more connections you do the more you'll appreciate having a tool like this.

The type which folds over requires more fiddling with and attention and hand-eye coordination to do a good job.

Quality tools: http://www.dmctools.com/default.htm

 

[Paul B]

We have used your option one for 15 years and never had issues with probably over a thousand cables in service. We use a crimp tool with orange handles made by Sargent that costs around $25 and get the pins from Allied. Once the cable is inside the hood we put a ty-rap around the cable to act as a secondary strain relief. We use the plastic hoods that close with three phillips screws because there is plenty of room for resistors, jumpers, whatever. With the low cost of tooling and pins, connectors, and hoods, everyone has a cable kit, probably ten kits in our company. I disagree that it takes more fiiddling to get a good crimp. I can make a cable in no time, without any do-overs. It might not be the best but it is certainly good enough in my opinion.

 

[MikeGranby]

The DMC tools are the best, but there's also a cheaper tool that you can pick up for around $50 to $60 as shown at [1] below. I bought one of those for a lot less than that a few years back from an avionics guy on eBay, but I can't find that better price now. Does a good job. I've used it on a few cable harnesses for experimental airplanes. Re soldering as an option, forget it. 4-way crimps produce a much neater job, without powering up an iron and without worrying about stray strands.

[1] http://www.testequipmentdepot.com/platinum-tools/crimpers/13015.htm#0003123?ref=gbase

 

[kolyur]

I ended up buying the machined/round barrel contacts and an inexpensive 4-way crimping tool (Paladin 1460, $40 from Allied). I am very pleased with the results. The tool has a fairly simple depth adjustment, which requires some trial & error, but produces reliable crimps every time once you have it set right. I would reiterate Mike's comment to make sure that the tool and contacts are compatible with the AWG of your wire. Thanks for everyone's suggestions.